Travelogue of Beijing: Encountering a Different Kind of Northern Charm Amidst Red Walls and Yellow Tiles
As a southerner who grew up in the water towns of Jiangnan, Beijing has always been, to me, the solemn red walls and yellow tiles of textbooks, the refreshing "autumn of the old capital" in songs, and a northern landscape completely different from the misty rain and flowing streams. Finally, after saving up enough vacation time, I embarked on this journey across the north and south. I didn't intend to visit every tourist attraction; I simply wanted to experience the capital's rich history and vibrant energy from a southerner's perspective—after all, more than just "checking off tourist spots," I wanted to understand the delightful collision of two distinct cultures. This travelogue records my genuine experiences and insights as a southerner visiting Beijing.
Upon arriving in Beijing, what first struck me was the grandeur of the Palace Museum. Having grown accustomed to the delicate and graceful gardens of the South, stepping into the Forbidden City truly made me understand the meaning of "imperial grandeur." Passing through Tiananmen Square and entering the Meridian Gate, the expansive square, the symmetrically arranged palaces, and the gleaming golden glazed tiles—even the wind carried a sense of solemnity. Southern architecture, often built along waterways, is lively and elegant, while the Forbidden City's red walls and yellow tiles stand on level ground, their orderly arrangement inspiring awe. While visiting the Forbidden City, I deliberately avoided peak crowds. The morning sunlight bathed the palace walls, making the red appear even more profound. The wind rustled through the ancient cypress trees in the Imperial Garden, creating a tranquil sound far more serene than the cicadas' chirping in the South. What surprised me most was climbing Jingshan Park after visiting the Forbidden City. Standing atop the Wanchun Pavilion, the entire panorama of the Forbidden City unfolded before me. The sea of red walls and yellow tiles intertwined with the modern skyscrapers in the distance—for a moment, I felt almost disoriented—the fusion of ancient and modern in such a striking way was truly powerful. Tips: If you're from the south, be sure to wear comfortable shoes when visiting the Forbidden City. Compared to the compact gardens in the south, the Forbidden City is quite spacious and requires a lot of walking. Also, booking tickets 3-7 days in advance is crucial to avoid a wasted trip.
If the Forbidden City is a testament to human ingenuity, then the Great Wall is a miracle of nature and human craftsmanship. As a southerner, I usually climb hills and small mountains, but climbing the Great Wall for the first time gave me a new understanding of "precipitous." I chose the relatively easier Mutianyu section, not daring to challenge the steepness of Badaling. Taking the cable car to the top, watching the wall wind along the mountain ridge like a giant dragon coiled among the mountains, the lush greenery of the southern forests gave way to the vast, open expanse of the northern mountains. A breeze carried a dry, cool chill. Hiking on the wall, the bricks beneath my feet bore the marks of history, and the distant beacon towers appeared and disappeared in the mist. I instantly understood the heroic sentiment of "He who has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true hero." A word of advice to my southern friends: Beijing's dryness and wind are far greater than you might imagine, especially on the Great Wall. Even in spring and autumn, it's considerably colder than in the south, so be sure to bring a windproof jacket to avoid a headache; also, remember to bring a bottle of water, as the dry climate makes you thirsty easily. If you prefer a less crowded option, Mutianyu is less crowded than Badaling and has more vegetation. In autumn, when the mountains are covered in red leaves, the red walls and leaves against the backdrop of the Great Wall create a wonderful atmosphere for taking photos.
After visiting the solemn tourist attractions, what felt most familiar to me was the everyday life of people in the old Beijing hutongs. Although Nanluoguxiang is somewhat commercialized, it's still a great starting point for southerners to experience the true flavor of Beijing. Nanluoguxiang is most comfortable in the early morning; there are no noisy crowds, sunlight filters through the locust tree branches onto the bluestone pavement, and elderly people walk their birds, play chess, and speak in Beijing dialect with its distinctive "er" suffix. This leisurely pace of life is surprisingly similar to that of old streets in the south. The difference is that while southern old streets often feature flowing water, Beijing's hutongs are mostly composed of gray-walled, gray-tiled courtyards, behind which lie stories of old Beijing. If you want to avoid the crowds, be sure to turn into the nearby Yandaixie Street or the hutongs around Shichahai. There, the commercialization is less pronounced, and you can occasionally see a courtyard door slightly ajar, revealing a pomegranate tree inside—a truly charming sight. As a southerner, I also noticed a small detail: Beijing's hutongs are mostly straight, unlike the winding alleys of the south, making it easier to find your way. When strolling through the hutongs, don't forget to try some authentic old Beijing snacks. The soft and chewy donkey rolls and pea flour cakes, the hearty tripe and braised pork offal are completely different from the light sweetness of southern snacks and are definitely worth a try.
Beyond its history and old alleyways, Beijing's modern vitality also impressed me. After a tiring stroll through the hutongs, a walk in Houhai Lake is a must. Houhai in the evening has a touch of romance, with shimmering water and melodious music drifting from the bars along the shore. While it lacks the gentle elegance of West Lake in the south, it possesses a more bold and unrestrained charm. If you're into trends, Sanlitun is a must-visit. Its fashion sense rivals that of first-tier cities in the south. The trendy outfits of the street-style patrons, various popular restaurants, and niche art galleries showed me a youthful side of Beijing. What surprised me most was the 798 Art District. The industrial-style buildings converted from old factories, combined with modern art pieces, create a rugged yet artistic atmosphere, completely different from the fresh and clean style of southern art districts. As a southerner, I especially enjoyed sitting in the cafes of 798, looking at the red brick walls and sculptures outside the window, soaking in this unique artistic ambiance—it's also incredibly photogenic.
Speaking of food, as a southerner, Beijing's cuisine is a true "taste adventure" for me. The most amazing dish is Peking duck. Quanjude and Bianyifang each have their own unique characteristics; the skin is so crispy it melts in your mouth. Paired with lotus leaf pancakes, sweet bean sauce, and scallions and cucumber strips, each bite is bursting with flavor. Unlike the sweeter roast duck of the south, this one has a wonderfully layered, savory taste. Then there's the copper pot hot pot. As a southerner used to spicy hot pot and Chaoshan beef hot pot, this was my first time trying clear broth copper pot hot pot. I was amazed by how tender the lamb could be. Dipped in sesame sauce, it was warm and comforting, perfect for Beijing's dry and cold climate. However, a word of caution to my southern friends: Beijing cuisine tends to be saltier and heavier, quite different from the lighter, sweeter flavors of the south. If you're not used to strong flavors, let the vendors know beforehand. Also, Huguosi Snack Street offers a one-stop shop for various traditional Beijing snacks. Aiwowo (glutinous rice cake), sugar-coated glutinous rice cake, and fried liver are all worth trying. It's recommended to eat small portions frequently to avoid waste.
Finally, here are a few tips specifically for Southerners traveling to Beijing, all based on my personal experience: First, regarding the climate, Beijing is incredibly dry! Southern friends should definitely bring moisturizing spray, lip balm, and face masks, otherwise your skin and lips will easily become chapped. In spring and autumn, there's a large temperature difference between day and night; you might wear short sleeves at midday, but a jacket in the morning and evening. I recommend layering your clothing in layers for easy adjustment. Summers are hot and rainy, while winters are cold and dry, so prepare clothing according to the season before you travel. Second, regarding transportation, the Beijing subway covers most attractions. I recommend getting a transportation card; it's more convenient and cheaper than taking a taxi. Attractions are often far apart; for example, the Great Wall is quite far from the city center, so I suggest allocating a separate day for it. Don't cram it into one day with city attractions, as it will be exhausting. Third, regarding reservations, popular attractions like the Forbidden City and the Great Wall must be booked 3-7 days in advance on official platforms, especially during holidays, as reservations are often impossible to get late. Fourth, regarding food, Southern friends who aren't used to salty, spicy, or heavy flavors can communicate with restaurants beforehand and choose milder options. Also, drink plenty of warm water to alleviate dryness. Fifthly, regarding etiquette, when strolling through the hutongs, do not disturb the lives of residents unnecessarily. It is best to ask in advance before taking photos and respect local customs and habits.
By the end of my trip, my impression of Beijing was no longer the stereotypical image from textbooks. It possessed the solemnity of red walls and yellow tiles, and the warmth of old alleyways filled with the smoke of cooking fires; it had the expansiveness of northern scenery, and the vitality of a modern metropolis. As a southerner, this trip was not just about sightseeing, but also a collision of northern and southern styles—I grew accustomed to the misty rain of Jiangnan, yet fell in love with Beijing's dryness; I became used to the sweetness of southern cuisine, but also remembered Beijing's profound history. Beijing is like a thick book, each page holding surprises, waiting to be slowly turned. If you are also a southerner and want to experience a different kind of northern charm, why not put down your travel guide, take your time, and feel it for yourself? You will discover that the charm of this capital city lies in the surprises hidden in every collision of north and south.
